No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive - clean up

Hi:

what is the best way to clean a brush after using it to apply No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive?

Thank you,

R

No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive is the BEST fusing adhesive!

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Hello, R ~

When I'm using a brush with No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive, I'll generally have a paper towel next to me while working. I use it occasionally to wick some of the adhesive off of the brush (and little bits of frit when I get build up).

When I'm finished working, I'll just wipe the brush off on the paper towel by "painting" excess adhesive onto the paper towel. Then, I just let it dry. I generally dedicate this brush (actually, I have two dedicated brushes) to working with No Days. It will harden up, but when I use it on the next project, the brush will get saturated again and soften up.

However, if you don't want to dedicate a brush for working with No Days, then you can clean it up when you're done with a bit of oil. Any oil you've got lying around will work. I generally use canola oil, or cutting oil, because they're right there. Place the oil in a cap, small container, jar lid, etc. and paint the brush around in it. After getting it thoroughly saturated, put a bit of dish soap in the palm of your hand and swish the brush around in it. Rinse and then, VOILA! Clean and ready to use on something else!

Alternatively, you can use acetone (or acetone based fingernail polish remover). Just place a bit of the acetone in a jar and soak and clean the bristles in the acetone. But, I prefer the oil and soap method.

Hope this helps! If you have more questions or this didn't fully answer your question, feel free to contact me again!

Good luck!

Carrie

No Days Mosaic Mesh Advice from Leigh Adams

Hi Leigh, I just received my first order of No Days and am loving it! First, I just wanted to say thanks for the work you did here, pioneering this product for mosaic artists! 

Corn accents on No Days Mosaic Mesh, which
will be affixed to the wedi board using thinset.

Second, a question: the No Days Mesh came with an opaque release paper, and the instructions recommended I sketch my design directly onto the mesh. I found I can't achieve the level of detail I want by doing this, and would love to have my image directly behind the mesh to guide my work. Could you recommend a CLEAR, heat-resistant release paper I could use behind the mesh that would not obscure my image? Thanks so much for your time! Cheers! ~Lynn

Leigh Adams, the No Days Mosaic Mesh Queen

I'm so glad to hear you are enjoying the No Days mesh, Lynn! Since it is easiest to work in one foot squares (for installation purposes as well as ease of using the kitchen oven to adhere the tesserae), I create my design on any paper I want and divide it into workable shapes that I can piece together easily and conveniently. Then, instead of using the release paper (save it!), I use waxed paper and put the mesh on top of that. You can see your design and the mesh can be heated and will release. CAUTION! Test your wax paper. Some recent purchases have not been adequately strong, the paper was inferior. Try a test square and keep notes on what works for you And please let me see what you do!

Four 12" squares of mosaic built on No Days Mosaic Mesh

UPDATE: I have found that Reynolds Parchment paper (the side with the writing on it) will also work well as a release liner.

No Days QStik Adhesive = Mosaic Wallpaper

What is No Days Q Stik Mosaic Adhesive?

  One side of the No Days Q Stik Mosaic Adhesive utilizes the advantages of No Days' heat activated adhesive for tile placement, while the back side of the Q Stik film contains an industrial strength, quick stick mounting adhesive for permanent mounting of your mosaic to a wide variety of large or small  interior surfaces, both horizontally and vertically.  It's basically, a customizable mosaic wallpaper. So, how do you use it?

Begin by cutting the Q Stik to size, then cut and place your mosaic tiles on the waxy side of the Q Stik. After all or part of your tiles are in place, use a heat gun or heat embossing tool to activate the heat set adhesive. Grab a pair of tweezers to move the tiles into place before they cool and bond to the Q Stik paper. (If they cool and you can't move them, you can always reheat them to re-position the tiles.)

When the adhesive and tiles have cooled down, the bond will be permanent (unless you decide to heat the tiles up to 160 degrees F / 70 degrees C), and you're ready to install. Peel back the paper the covers the pressure sensitive adhesive and press into place.

Depending upon where you're planning on installing the mosaic, you may need to support the adhesive for awhile before the permanent bond takes over. In the pictures, I've installed the mosaic upside down on an archway to see how well the QStik sticks. It's installed over some glossy paint in a strip roughly 6" x 18".

This was the last project on my to do list before leaving the studio, so I taped it to help keep it in place (just in case the adhesive needs some help sticking while it's curing). When I get back to the studio, I'll finish by grouting and then report back in intervals to let you know how well my mosaic wallpaper is sticking...

Q & A ~ Heating No Days Mosaic Mesh in the Oven

Assorted tiles on No Days Mosaic Mesh:
thick dichroic on ceramic tiles, clay tile, thick glass tile,
smalti & fused glass

No Days Mosaic Mesh is a fiberglass mesh with No Days Mosaic Adhesive embedded in it. So, instead of using white glue (which can be messy) or thinset or mortar (which can be messy and take time to mix up in small batches), you can place your tiles on top of the mesh and heat set them in place before final installation with a cement product.

The No Days Mosaic Adhesive will stick to everything but silicone. So, it comes packaged with a silicone coated paper to be used as a release liner. If you don't heat set your tiles on the mesh on top of the silicone release liner, then the mesh will stick to whatever surface is lying under it!
 

Assorted tiles on No Days Mosaic Mesh:
glass tiles, sea shell & smalti

 Once your tiles are in place, you can use a standard heat gun, curing station, embossing heat tool, oven, electric skillet, or toaster oven to heat the adhesive to activate it. Using an oven can be a huge time saver, because it frees up your hands to continue working on more sections of the mosaic instead of holding a heat gun.  The No Days Adhesive is non-toxic and will not contaminate your oven when used properly.

Assorted tiles on No Days Mosaic Mesh:
thick and thin glass tile,  stone & dichroic glass

To use an oven, find a cookie sheet and line it with the release liner from the NO Days Mosaic Mesh packaging. The liner should be slightly larger than the mesh mosaic you are building. Then, lay down a section of No Days Mosaic Mesh and cover it with your tiles. When you're ready to heat set the adhesive, put the cookie sheet in the oven and set the oven to 180º-200ºF (80º-90ºC). Leave your mosaic in the oven for approximately 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, remove the cookie sheet and use tweezers or a skewer to move pieces into place if they are not exactly where they should be. You will have about a minute to move your tiles around before the adhesive begins to cool and cure. If you need more time, then reheat the mosaic. (NOTE: If you continue to move the tiles when the adhesive begins to cool and cure, then your bond will become weak. Reheat the pieces to reactivate the adhesive if you need more time.)

If you haven't tried using No Days Mosaic Mesh, it's recommended to try building a small section (~6" or 12") to get used to the way it works. After you heat set the piece and pull it out of the oven,  let it cool down.  Shake the mesh a bit and if the pieces are falling off, then the try to heat again.

 

Some things to keep in mind: 

• Thicker tiles can take a bit longer to heat. Experiment to see how long you need to heat your tiles. The adhesive activates at 160ºF (70ºC), which is too hot to touch. You should not be able to comfortably touch tiles that are hot enough to activate the adhesive. 
• No Days Adhesives do not stick to silicon. If your tiles had any kind of silicon adhesive covering the back of them, they will not stick to the mesh because our adhesive won't stick to silicon. 
• If you have any problems, please contact info@streuter.com so we can help you sort them out!

Q&A Monday ~ No Days Groutless Mosaic Birdbath

Hi~
I wanted to line the bottom of a bird bath with your product (No Days Groutless Mosaic Adhesive).  Saves grouting.  Will it hold up outside if I bring it in the winter and only use when weather is warm?  I live in Maryland, so we don't get too many really cold days.
~S

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Hi, S ~

I've started on my sample piece. Worked on it a lot yesterday and plan to finish it today or tomorrow.I've attached the in progress picture of my birdbath on a hypertufa cement base. If you'd like to see pictures of the progress I made yesterday and the order in which I place the tiles, you can see them on our Instagram page: http://instagram.com/nodaysadhesives# or scroll down to the bottom of this post for the photo montage.

No Days Groutless birdbath on hypertufa...in progress

Also, I heard back from Brad. He says,"The adhesive is insoluble in water so it will hold up.    The birdbath is a great example to show on Facebook to illustrate that the adhesive will withstand being installed in an underwater environment.   Being able to withstand water is also applicable to the No Days Mosaic Mesh, No Days Mosaic Adhesive Film, No Days Bailbond, No Days Glaze and HoneyDoo Zuper Glue."

Hope this helps, and let me know if you need any assistance with your birdbath :)

Also, I'd love to see pictures when you've finished!

Cheers,

Carrie 

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Hi, Carrie ~

I am so thrilled that you would take time out of your busy day to work on the birdbath!!

I sculpted my birdbath with clay and have been thinking (for a few years) how I would like to finish it.  Once I get supplies and get started, I will be back in touch.  I also try to do decorative painting, sew bears for Newborns in Need and some crocheting and beading.  I can't seem to stay with one thing.  I have found that my painting overlaps onto my sculpting and so I am anxious to do the glass.  I got the cutter, glass, etc ready to go, just was hesitant to do the grouting since I had done some stepping stones where the glass moved.

I will keep in touch.
Thank you,
S

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Good luck, S! Again don't hesitate to ask if you run into questions:)

I am with you as far as multiple techniques are concerned. I love when you can combine all your loves together. You sound well-rounded ;)

Carrie

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Carrie, new question.  I want to order some products.  How did you line the bird bath?  Did you put down the groutless base?  Did you use the adhesive to glue the tiles on so they don't fall.

No Days Groutless Mosaic Birdbath

What do you suggest I purchase to get started since I have never seen any of the products and should I buy it from the company?  I don't want to waste money in the beginning.  Maybe later I can accumulate more of their products.
Thanks, S

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Hi, S~

With all of your hobbies, you probably already have a heat gun or embossing heat tool? That's how you heat set the adhesive. I will warn you that working 3D with the adhesive is a little tricky. You have to work in small sections. Here's a video that shows some 3D pieces being worked on with the No Days Mosaic Adhesive:

And here's a video that is an introduction to the Groutless Mosaic Adhesive, which is what I used:

The 3D video shows taping the beginning pieces in place, but I just let them cool down and add more, using gravity to my advantage. After laying down the initial strip (only 5 or 6 tiles) and letting them cool, I turned the stone bowl and added another short segment and then heat set them. After they cooled, I rotated the bowl again and added the next 5 or 6 tiles, until I got back to the beginning. After that first row, I added a few rows of tile at a time. I started on the outside of my bowl because the center was optically off on my homemade bowl. It may be easier to start in the flat bottom area and then slowly work your way up the sides.

Photo collage that shows the steps in building the mosaic birdbath
using No Days Groutless Mosaic Adhesive on a hypertufa base.

 In some areas, I doubled up the adhesive under the tiles, because my bowl is porous. When, heating the adhesive, it tends to pull together before it spreads out again, so you need to really heat it and "paint" it around with the tiles. My bowl is about 14" or more across, and the last picture I sent was a little less than the whole 12" roll of black Groutless Mosaic Adhesive. There are areas of the tile that are covered with some groutless. You can leave them as is, or the adhesive scrapes off with a razor (or fingernail if it's still slightly warm). ADDITION: I also found out that after the mosaic cools, that the excess adhesive can be washed off with a garden hose and spray nozzle. Quick and easy! I had one tile that popped off, and that was because I didn't heat it long enough to properly adhere to the cement base.

Oh, and I use a pair of long tweezers (~6" or so) that helps to push on the tiles while they're hot.
So, the only materials that you'll need are glass tiles (I cut mine to 3/8" and 5/16" and 1/8" just to have a variety of sizes), Groutless Mosaic Adhesive, heat gun or embossing heat tool, tweezers, and scissors to cut the adhesive. That should be it!

Here are written directions for a micro mosaic project I did with the Groutless: http://nodaysadhesives.blogspot.com/2012/08/micro-mosaic-tutorial-no-days-groutless.html
Good luck!
I'd love to see pictures of your birdbath when you get around to it:)
Carrie

Q&A Monday ~ Vertical Mount Mosaic with Mesh

Subject: mosaic product question

I an interested in doing some mosaic work on  concrete wall outside. Is there a product that would work well for this? It needs to be able to withstand winter and hot summer conditions as I am located in KS.

Thank you,

S

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No Days Mosaic Mesh allows you to build your mosaic on a horizontal
surface and then mount your mosaic vertically using thinset or mortar.

 Hi, S ~

The best way to approach the work you want to do would be to build your mosaic on mesh and then mount on the wall using an appropriate thinset / mortar.

Our No Days Mosaic Mesh has a heat set adhesive that holds the tiles to the mesh while you're building the mosaic. When the pieces are set in place, then you use thinset to attach it to the wall.

We have a YouTube channel and there's a quick video on the process here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHExYFozByA&feature=share&list=PL2470E6E3D2CD6545

There's an artist that uses our mesh all the time on installations and she likes to place and then heat set the tiles on the mesh. After the tiles cool down, she butters the back of the mosaic with a thin layer of thinset, which helps to stabilize the mosaic and makes it easy to install. http://nodaysadhesives.blogspot.com/2013/05/merle-art-design-custom-dogwood-bathroom.html

Hope this helps,
Carrie

Mosaic insert on stone bench, made using No Days Mosaic Mesh.

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.

Q&A Monday ~ Mosaic Mesh vs film adhesive

Subject: Exterior Mosaic project

I am working on a large 3' x 6' exterior glass tile mosaic. I thought I'd adhere it to backer board, working flat, then mount that to the wall for final placement. I was thinking of using your No Days Mesh, as I position the tiles. Then use Weldbond glue to adhere it to the backer board. Grout and seal. Now I am wondering if I should just use your Mosaic Adhesive Film. Would that product work on what will be hung vertically and be outdoors permanently?

Thanks for your help.

L

Thank you! Looking forward to using this. How long has this product been available?

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Should I use No Days Mosaic film or Mosaic Mesh?

Hi, L :)

The mesh was meant to be mounted with mortar or thinset. I would suggest using the No Days Mosaic Adhesive Film if you'll be working directly on backerboard and then mounting. The adhesive only activates (or reactivates) at 160 degrees F, which is well above outdoor temperatures. The freeze thaw cycle doesn't affect it either.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have further questions!
Carrie

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.

Q&A ~ Using No Days Q-Stik for Windows

Subject: Streuter Technologies: Q Stik temperatures

Can a glass piece made on No Days Q Stik be fitted vertically in a window (10 1/2"w x 23" h)  without problems?  I'm planning on building a window to fit a south facing window in Arizona. In the fall, winter & spring, the sun will be directly hitting the window. The room in the summer is not air conditioned, so inside temperature will be about 85-90 degrees.
Thanks!

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Hi~

Are you wanting to do a mosaic on glass? The QStik isn't transparent, so you would be able to see the film between any pieces of glass.

Otherwise, the heat set adhesive doesn't reactivate until it reaches 160dF. It should be fine.

Does this help?
Carrie

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Bobbi Barnes mosaic window made using No Days Q-Stik

Hi, Carrie~

I finished the 2 windows. I really like and enjoy using your products. The only problem I had was if the glass was uneven on the back the glue wasn't adhering to all the surface.
Thanks for your help!

Hope you enjoy the pictures; the design came from a few pictures and my brain!
Bobbi

Bobbi Barnes mosaic window made using No Days Q-Stik

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Update: 
 To answer the question in the comments below and to clarify (ha!) the point of transparency, I've included some pictures of my own project that I threw together in 3 hours + plus grouting.

Backlit from the front. Carrie's project with Q-Stik and scrap stained glass.

Here is the window I threw together in one evening (minus grouting). I used glass strictly from the scrap bin in the studio, so I've got a wide variety of glasses to look through.

Backlit and looking at the back of the panel.

When the panel is lit from behind, the No Days Q-Stik doesn't really hinder the appearance of the mosaic window.

You'll notice that the non-transparency of the Q-Stik becomes a problem
if you're looking at the panel from the back, without back-lighting.

However, if the window is not lit from behind, well...then, you can see all the areas where the glass is not attached to the adhesive (bubbles) and a bit of a haze from the pressure sensitive adhesive film.

A big problem area for me was this bit of scrap stained glass
that made up the leaf. It was not flat at all! In fact, I went back and
intentionally broke it so it would lay flat without getting grout underneath.

The detail shot gives you a glimpse of my big problem area (from behind, so it's never a problem if no one sees this side of the window) where the glass I used for the leaf curves away from the window and adhesive sheet.

Hope this helps to clear up some of the questions. If not, let me know and I'll try to help out further!
~Carrie

Q&A Monday ~ Mixed Media Techniques with Apoxie Sculpt & No Days Mosaic Mesh

Subject: Streuter Technologies: No Days Mosaic Mesh

Hi, this is my first time using your mesh, do I have to complete my project before using the heat gun or can I keep using the heat gun when I finish a section of my project before the complete mosaic is finished?

Also I want to use some beads in my mosaic can I use Apoxie Sculpt to lay my beads down in place and when the Apoxie drys use the heat gun for the surrounding stained glass?

Thank you,
Peggy Lindstrom

Detail of Peggy's owl on No Days Mesh with
Apoxie Sculpt holding the beads in place.

Hi, Peggy~

It's not necessary to finish the whole mosaic before heat setting sections. In fact, one mosaic artist I know likes to build cookie sheet sized sections of her mosaic, so she can put part of the mosaic in the oven to set while she works on the next section!

You do need to remember to build your mosaic on the No Days Mesh on top of the shiny side of the white release liner that comes in the package with the mesh. If you build on the non-shiny surface or forget it altogether, your mosaic and mesh will stick to the paper or surface that you're building on. After you've heat set a section, you do need to let it cool down before moving it, so that the release liner doesn't stick. The adhesive will peel off of it when it cools down, but when it's hot, it likes to stick to the liner.

The project you're working on sounds intriguing! I'd never heard of Apoxie Sculpt. I'm not sure what the makeup of the product is, but No Days Adhesive will stick to everything except silicon (the shiny side of the release liner has a silicon coating). I don't know if Apoxie will hold up to the heat gun, you may want to give them a call and ask them or make a small sample test piece. The website says that it's not flammable, but that doesn't guarantee that it won't discolor. If it doens't hold up to the heat, you could always lay down the Apoxie Sculpt and beads after heat setting the stained glass pieces.

I'd really love to see your mosaic when you've finished. I'm curious about the Apoxie Sculpt, too. I may have to think of a good reason to buy it and play with a new technique :)

I've linked to a video below from our YouTube channel specifically regarding the mesh, and also the website of the company that creates the Apoxie Sculpt and what I read about it.

Good luck!

Carrie Strope Sohayda

Work In Progress: Peggy of PalsCreations on Etsy shared
this image of her owl in a tree done on No Days Mesh.

Hi Carrie,

 Here are the pictures of the mosaic I'm working on: a tree with a little owl in the tree. I've outlined the owl with beads that I attached to the mesh with Apoxie Sculpt; it dries hard like cement and held up fine with the heat.  It's actually going to be a baby mural for one of my teammates (I belong to piecemakers, a team on etsy) who is having a baby this year. It's a collaborative effort, we are all making separate pieces and one person is going to put it all together, I'll send you a picture when its complete. My shop name is PalsCreations.etsy.com

Thanks again,

Peggy

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions!   Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous (unless you want to share pictures and take credit or share web links to your site)!   Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.

Q&A Monday ~ cracking the base of Glass On Glass mosaics

Subject: mosaic adhesive on Glass on Glass mosaics

 
After being being asked by a customer about the heat activated mosaic glue sheets, we tried them with "glass on glass" using the GNA restover restoration glass & glass tiles.  These were heated both by the heat gun & your "patented heater" & both resulted in moderate to poor adhesion with the back glass being cracked all 3 times.....  We've gone back to using the old standard "Weldbond".  Neither of these were more than 2 ft sq in surface area.  Is this a common thing?  I am reluctant to push this product after my bad luck, any suggestions?

 P

14" round Glass on Glass (GOG) mosaic created with stained glass on recycled window glass
with No Days Groutless Mosaic Adhesive. The edge of the glass base was wrapped with
zinc edge came and soldered together with wire hangers.

Hi, P~

 I'm sorry to hear that you're having problems with the adhesive on glass on glass (GOG) mosaics. Since it is a heat set adhesive, using the adhesive on larger sheets of glass can result in cracking with uneven heating. Glass can thermal shock and crack if different parts of the window are heated too quickly. I've attached a photo of one of the GOG mosaics that I've been working on lately. These are 14" round on plate glass (recycled window panes). To heat these, I bring the whole thing up to temperature in the kiln or oven before heating with a heat gun. This ensures that the glass is all the same temperature and evenly heated. In the oven, I'll set the temperature to 200 degrees and put the piece in while the oven is room temp. 10-15 minutes later, I can remove it to an insulated work surface (I use homosote board) and continue to heat with a heat gun to move my pieces into place and push down on them to ensure good contact with the plate glass below. (In the kiln, I set the temp a bit higher so I don't have to wait so long. The kiln shelves steal a lot of the heat away from the glass.)

I'm curious to know if the curing station that you're using is as big as the glass you're building on. If it is, you shouldn't be having problems. However, if it doesn't cover the whole piece of glass, then I could see it thermal shocking. Also, what kind of surface are you heating on?

I've linked to the following blog post in hopes of addressing your other issue of poor adhesion. If the pieces of glass that you're working with have lots of texture, then there may be few points of adhesion. The surface area of the pieces that are actually adhered may be too small. Also, if the base piece of glass doesn't reach 160ºF (70ºC), then that would result in pop-offs, as well.

Do you happen to have any pictures of the failures/cracked glass?

Does this help to answer any of your questions or make sense?
Let me know if it doesn't make sense.

Carrie Strope Sohayda

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.

Q&A Monday ~ Cleaning up Liquid Fusing Adhesive

Continuing with the theme of clean up from last week, here's an email from P. wondering how to clean the Liquid Fusing Adhesive from hands and other surfaces...

Subject: Streuter Technologies: Liquid Fusing Adhesive

What can I use to clean up tools and my hands when I get the No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive on them?
Thanks, P

No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive

Hi, P~

The liquid fusing adhesive is sticky stuff! When you're done using it, you can use vegetable oil or petroleum jelly to help get the adhesive off of your hands and tools, then wash with soap and warm water. If there is still a residue, acetone (nail polish remover) will help get rid of it.

Hope that helps:)

Carrie

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.

Q&A Monday ~ Cleaning the Needle Tip on No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive

Subject: Streuter Technologies: How to clean needle tip?

Is there any way to clean the needle tip for use with the No Days glue? It seems to be plugged, and I can't get it to work.

Thank you for any help-
X

Fused Glass Frit Painting done using No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive

Dear X ~
My first question is which No Days glue are you using? Is it the No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive or the HoneyDoo Zuper Glue? We sell both, and I just want to make sure I'm giving you the right answer.
I'm going to assume the No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive (LFA)...
When the LFA dries, it is super strong! It can clog the tip or glue the needle in the tip, as well. However, the LFA will soften itself. If my tip (lid) is stuck together, I'll generally turn the bottle upside down for a few seconds and then wait for a bit and try to open the tip again. Sometimes I have to use my pliers to help pry the needle out. I have broken the needle off before, though, so make sure to let it soak itself.
If you're able to take the tip off of the bottle, you can soak it in acetone (nail polish remover) or denatured alcohol for awhile and then try to unclog it.
Let me know if this helps and if I'm answering the right question:)
Good luck!
Carrie

No Days Liquid Fusing Adhesive
with needle nose applicator tip

 

Thanks, Carrie!  I finally got it unplugged- but yes, I was referring to the Liquid Fusing Adhesive.  (I did have a bottle of the HoneyDoo Zuper glue too, but that stuff totally dried up for some reason) * Anyway, I will try holding the bottle upside down and see if that works next time- but for this time, I was finally able to get it unplugged with a straight pin, working from both ends, and blowing on it.  That could have been the solution to the problem, however I think it was laying on it's side for a few minutes, so maybe that was what opened it up!

Thanks for your help- 

Best wishes!

HoneyDoo Zuper Glue

*The shelf life of the HoneyDoo Zuper Glue is 9-12 months. After awhile, it will dry up. You can extend the shelf life of the Zuper Glue by storing it in a refrigerated area.

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No Days Instructor and Support Carrie Strope Sohayda

Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com.