Subject: mosaic adhesive on Glass on Glass mosaics
After being being asked by a customer about the heat activated mosaic glue sheets, we tried them with "glass on glass" using the GNA restover restoration glass & glass tiles. These were heated both by the heat gun & your "patented heater" & both resulted in moderate to poor adhesion with the back glass being cracked all 3 times..... We've gone back to using the old standard "Weldbond". Neither of these were more than 2 ft sq in surface area. Is this a common thing? I am reluctant to push this product after my bad luck, any suggestions?
Hi, P~
I'm sorry to hear that you're
having problems with the adhesive on glass on glass (GOG) mosaics. Since it is a heat set
adhesive, using the adhesive on larger sheets of glass can result in
cracking with uneven heating. Glass can thermal shock and crack if
different parts of the window are heated too quickly. I've attached a
photo of one of the GOG mosaics that I've been working on lately. These
are 14" round on plate glass (recycled window panes). To heat these, I
bring the whole thing up to temperature in the kiln or oven before
heating with a heat gun. This ensures that the glass is all the same
temperature and evenly heated. In the oven, I'll set the temperature to
200 degrees and put the piece in while the oven is room temp. 10-15
minutes later, I can remove it to an insulated work surface (I use
homosote board) and continue to heat with a heat gun to move my pieces
into place and push down on them to ensure good contact with the plate
glass below. (In the kiln, I set the temp a bit higher so I don't have
to wait so long. The kiln shelves steal a lot of the heat away from the
glass.)After being being asked by a customer about the heat activated mosaic glue sheets, we tried them with "glass on glass" using the GNA restover restoration glass & glass tiles. These were heated both by the heat gun & your "patented heater" & both resulted in moderate to poor adhesion with the back glass being cracked all 3 times..... We've gone back to using the old standard "Weldbond". Neither of these were more than 2 ft sq in surface area. Is this a common thing? I am reluctant to push this product after my bad luck, any suggestions?
P
Hi, P~
Do you happen to have any pictures of the failures/cracked glass?
Does this help to answer any of your questions or make sense?
Let me know if it doesn't make sense.
Let me know if it doesn't make sense.
Carrie Strope Sohayda
|
Hi, there! Carrie, here... Not only do I travel the country teaching folks how to use No Days adhesives (and other techniques), but I also answer customer support emails about using No Days. So, if you're having an issue with the adhesives, chances are good that I'll be answering your questions! Since I get so many good questions, I thought it might be a great learning opportunity for people that may be having some of the same issues but haven't thought to email us. Don't worry, I'll keep the emails anonymous! Also, don't forget that we've got a lot of really fabulous videos (I put those together, too...) on our YouTube channel. So for those of you who are visual learners (umm...we're visual artists, right?), you may want to check them out! If you've got questions, feel free to contact us at info@streuter.com. |
I am creating mosaic designs on glass vases of various sizes, bought at Michael's, using the adhesive film. While heating the 3rd side of the 4th vase made this way, the glass cracked. The film held the vase together and I was able to finish it even though the glass cracked more on the fourth side. I blamed it on having the gun too close to my work at a high heat for too long. The vase was placed on a terra cotta plate for the heat gun work. Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteHi, Margaret!
DeleteThe best glass vases to work on are the ones that don't have a really thick bottom. I'm not sure what your vases look like, but when the glass thickness is uneven, it makes it harder to evenly heat the glass without thermal shocking. It's possible you were in one spot for too long. When I heat a larger piece of glass, I'll often "flash" the whole thing with the heat to help keep the heat even, and then continue working on the spot I was heating. When you flash the vase with heat, you're not really trying to get any of the previous tiles to move. You just want to keep the cold parts of the vase a little warm.
Hope this helps? I'd love to see pictures of your projects! And...I'm always looking for artists to feature for our Featured Artist page (http://streuter.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=402:streuter-tech-featured-artist-profile&catid=1:latest-news&Itemid=50)!